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The (old) West Ham Tour

A visiting supporter's guide to Upton Park.

The Boleyn Ground

:: west stand

The Boleyn Ground (also known as Upton Park, the name of the locale) was the home of West Ham United football club from 1904-2016.

Just a short walk from Upton Park tube station, the home of the Hammers saw many changes over the years - especially since the 1990 Taylor report demanded that all Premier League stadia become all-seater in the wake of the Hillsborough disaster.

Both the Centenary Stand (north) and the Bobby Moore Stand (south) rose from the ashes of the old stands in the mid 1990s following the controversial Bond Scheme (that was eventually axed). The stadium received another facelift a decade later, when the West stand was redeveloped in a 35m project that was completed in 2003.

Away supporters were situated in the Centenary Stand - the nearest to Upton Park tube station, just a few hundred yards walk down Green Street. Prior to the works referred to above, away fans could be found in the old South Bank (Bobby Moore Stand).

The rear ticket office was situated in Priory Road, on the corner where the Bobby Moore and East Stands meet.

Upton Park Tube Station

:: upton park tube station

The nearest tube station to West Ham's former ground. Confusingly for away fans just up the line is West Ham tube station - but if you get off there you'll have a very long walk to The Boleyn!

To get to the site of the old ground, come out of the station main entrance and turn right into Green Street. The ground was roughly 500 yards down on your left, where flats now reside.

The Best Cafes In Town

Okay - this is arguable. But in this writers opinion you couldn't do better than Cassettari's or Nathan's on a Saturday lunchtime. Or even on a Wednesday evening for that matter ...

:: nathans pie and mash

Cassettari's cafe is legendary in West Ham's history. It was a regular haunt of the players; many stories are told of how Malcolm Allison used to gather his fellow players there to discuss tactics with salt and pepper pots way back inthe late '50s.

And Nathan's, just a short step from Cassettari's (where the Barking Road meets Green Street) was arguably the finest vendor of that East End delicacy - Pie, Mash and Liquor. Simply unbeatable before a game.

To get there, you would walk past the ground to the end of Green Street. From there, turn left into Barking Road, and you'll have found both Cassettari's and Nathan's 100 yards or so down on your left. Sadly, both no longer exist.

:: ken's cafe

Ken's Cafe (situated on Green Street between Upton Park tube station and the ground) also enjoys near-mythical status amongst hungry Hammers and was a regular haunt of many Hammers including radio presenter Phill Jupitus. You would have to get there early to get a table.

The Earl of Wakefield

:: the earl of wakefield

The Wakefield was, for many years, the spiritual home of KUMB, being as it was the poular destination for a pre-match tickler for several members of the KUMB forum.

The pub was predominantly poulated by home fans although opposition supporters often passed through. Sadly 'The Wakey' suffered a similar fate to Nathan's et al, and was most recently being used as a children's nursery having closed its doors to the public when West Ham moved to Stratford.

The Wakefield was situated on Katherine Road, which is accessed from the Barking Road - halfway between Green Street and East Ham High Street.

The Queens

:: the queens

The Queens pub is situated right next door to Upton Park tube station on Green Street.

A fiercely partisan clientele didn't take too kindly to opposing fans drinking in their pub, so if you were looking for a cheeky half before kick-off you were best to try further up Green Street (left out of the tube station), away from the ground.

Being where it is ie. right bang next door to the tube, the Queens saw its fair share of "action" over the years. Back in the hoolie heyday home supporters used to gather here to await the away fans, who would emerge from the tube station into ambush.

The Boleyn

:: the boleyn

The Boleyn pub is situated on the corner of Green Street and the Barking Road. It takes its name from the castle which used to stand upon the same ground several centuries ago.

It was the busiest pub in the area on match days, packed to the brim with Hammers fans. It's another former regular haunt of the players who used to regularly gather there for a post match pint.

The Boleyn was an effervescent cauldron of noise on a match day. The pool tables in the back bar were taken over by the younger lads - not to play on, but to dance and sing in preparation for the game ahead.

The Boleyn, like the Queens saw its fair share of "aggro" over the years. As a well known Hammers refuge several opposing firms attempted to take over the pub - with usually the same disappointing outcome ...

The Millers Wells

:: the millers wells

The Miller's Well is situated along the Barking Road, near East Ham high street.

A quieter pub than the Boleyn or Queens, the Miller's Well is some fifteen minutes walk from the ground, and was always a good stopping point before the game.

From the tube station walk to the junction of Green Street and Barking Road; turn right and follow the Barking Road for half a mile or so. The pub is on your left, just past the high street traffic lights.

The West Stand

The West Stand (officially known as the Dr. Martens Stand) opened for business at the start of the 2001/02 season.

The new stand increased the capacity of Upton Park by over 8,000 and was meant to be the first phase of an ambitious 35m redevelopment of Upton Park, which would've included a new East Stand until new owners opted to move to Stratford instead.

Despite many problems the stand opened in time for the 0-0 draw with Leeds in August 2001 - although only the Upper Tier was open at that stage.

The lower tier was opened some three months later in November, and seated in excess of 15,000 supporters until it was demolished in 2016.

Ticket Office

Useful Numbers

General Enquiries
020 8548 2748

Ticket Office/Travel Club
0870 112 2700

Hammers Quality Hotel
0870 460 8200

Membership Office
0870 112 2700

Football In The Community
020 8548 2707

Conference and Banqueting
020 8548 2775


Boleyn Ground, Green Street, London E13 9AZ